There are a few legs of the journey to the Eastern Caribbean that generate cause for concern. For us they are the crossing from Marathon to the Bahamas across the Gulf Stream, the run from the Bahamas to the Turks, then across to the DR, Luperon to Samana and now the Mona Passage between the Dominican Republic and Puerto Rico. From Boot Key Harbor to Georgetown, Luperon and then Samana there are a considerable number of conversations, usually over adult beverages, framing up the various strategies for each crossing. For example, never cross the Gulf Stream with ANY north component to the wind. 

In some ways the Mona Passage invokes a little more apprehension than some of the other crossings. The constant trade winds on the nose, the shallow banks of the Mona relative to the deep trenches on both the north and south side of the DR and Puerto Rico and the potential for thunderstorms rolling off of Puerto Rico make weather reading and forecasting the foremost in the conversations.

We still had all nine boats in the flotilla, waiting it out in Samana when we saw our break. Exit Stage Left, Utopia, and Wandering Star were out of the marina first on April 11. The winds were coming down from the normal 20's and we were impatient to leave. The rest of us decided to wait another day to let the winds drop a little more and the seas drop off. Interestingly, a large yacht next to us had decided to wait a day after us because they felt there would not be enough wind. Fine for us! I remember our conversation with Rick and Robin (Endangered Species) while in Georgetown, the best way to cross the Mona is by motor on a flat calm day. A noon departure time was set based on a 30 hour trip and we began to prepare, little knowing the that bureaucracy of the DR would once more impact our trip.

I set off in the morning in search of the Commandante and was told that he would be back at noon, no problem!. We buttoned up the boat to prepare for the seas and I wandered over again to find the Commandante who showed up around 2pm, no problem, he checked out Vagabond and Pepper and they left then come to talk to us. His first reaction was that we had to give him 24 hour notice (Evidently Pepper and Vagabond had caught him yesterday). After some diplomatic cajoleing by the remaining 5 boats the Commandante agreed to drive back to Santa Barbara to get the appropriate permissions executed. What, we asked? You can't sign us off? So off he went around 3pm with all our paperwork. At this point I had already decided that if the Commandante was not back by 6 we were off. Puerto Rico does not require any of this nonsensical paperwork.

Around 5:30 the Commandante showed up with someone from "Naval Intelligence"? and Drug Enforcement and commenced moving from boat to boat to check each one out individually. They all finally boarded and we sat staring at each other. I asked if they wanted to check the boat, that broke the ice, the Commandante pulled out the despacio again reciting his commentary regarding gratuities for duties performed. I nodded,  we stared at each other a little longer and finally he gave me the worthless piece of paper and they got up and got off the boat. Finally! Little did we know how the our delay would effect us later.

In the meantime we received an email from Exit Stage Left, they had made it to Boqueron safely if not a little uncomfortable. Our weather was beautiful and we were quickly out of the dock with the other boats close behind, about 7 hours behind our intended departure.

We reefed our main and genoa as we usually do as night approaches and had a very nice sail in winds below 15, trying to point as high as we could. The normal strategy is to sail NE about half way across the Mona against the east winds, then tack SE along the lee of Puerto Rico. We had set a waypoint for the southern point of Samana at Pt. Macao (our last bailout point before we hit the Mona) where the plan was to tack NE. The wind was on our side with a south component and we were able to sail east to the waypoint in the Mona and in a line to the northwestern point of PR. Winds pretty much stayed constant through the night and we were able to maintain our direction and good speed. The night was very clear and the stars were beautiful. We kept in touch through the night with Yarika, Symbiosis, Sailacious and could see Vagabond up ahead on AIS. 

During the next day the winds actually calmed and by the afternoon we had to pull our sails down and motor for a few hours. We were thrilled for the great sail so far. As we approached Isla Desecheo about 15 miles off the PR coast the winds picked up and we put up our headsail and turned south for Boqueron. The winds built over the next 2 hours and soon we where flying in 20 kt winds off the beam under our full headsail as the sun set. Sailing at night in the open water is one thing, you at least are not worried too much about hitting anything, at night on an unknown coast looking for navigation lights that you hoped were working to get you through a reef into the bay at Boqueron is a little more stressful. Especially at the 7+ kts that we were traveling. It would have been ok if the channel was not directly on the nose with no real ability to tack through it, especially in the moonless darkness. Danielle had gone below with a bad headache and Kaylee and I were navigating closer to the channel. Winds continued to build so we decided to pull the headsail. We turned downwind and Kaylee deftly sheeted out the headsail as I pulled in the roller furling line. We cranked the engine and began the last of our navigating to the channel. In the meantime Symbiosis and Yarika were following our trail and marking our turns on their GPS's to make their entry.

Through the channel and into the bay at Boqueron was a nice relief. The bay was perfectly calm and the winds died behind the hills. Danielle came back on deck as we began to figure out where to anchor in the dark. We knew Exit Stage Left was somewhere inside so we called them and they turned on their AIS and suggested a place to anchor. At that point it was now anti-climatic.

All in all a very good crossing, we sailed in 10 to 15's with seas under 4', got some calm and only hit high winds while in the lee so the waves were very tolerable. We made the passage in 28 hours and realized that if we had gotten out when we had originally planned we would not have hit the high winds and been in Boqueron easily before dark. I don't know if the other yacht got out the next day but they had plenty to sail in with 20+ winds out of the east. We picked the right day!

After the trek from Luperon, the relative comfort of the Puerto Bahia de Samana Marina was welcome. A full service resort, this marina offered restaurants, swimming pools, game room and a small grocery. Upon tying up we made our presence know to the local Commandante who shared office space with Immigration and Customs. A young guy dressed in fatigues made it clear that we "owed" no more money to the government however if we appreciated the services provided by this office a propina (tip) was entirely welcome and appropriate. I thanked him and said I would take it into consideration as we enjoy our stay at the marina.

All of the other boats had also made this marina safely. Salicious (as we learned later), however, did anchor in Rio San Juan the first night and then went into the harbor at Santa Barbara (the bay and anchorage next to the marina) where the local Commandantes fleeced them for $20 and $50 respectively. We were able to meet up with them a couple of days later where we got the details of their abuse.

We all were looking at Samana as a layover and plans were quickly being made for a fast departure to Puerto Rico. Weather was not cooperating however, so after a day we made for Parque Nationale de Cuerves, a well known area on the south side of the bay. Some guide books say that this is a "must see". We obtained our appropriate "permission" to travel from the Commandante and sailed the 10 miles across the bay to the park. Symbiosis was a little ahead of us and helped guide us to a good anchorage spot. Yarika and Salacious pulled in a couple of hours after we settled. Utopia came in the next day, all taking advantage of the chance for a new adventure while reducing our daily costs in the marina. Pepper and Vagabond were planning on moving to Punta Cana, about 75 miles southeast for an easier jump to Puerto Rico while Exit Stage Left and Wandering Star decided to brave the marginal conditions and get on with their crossing.

We were rewarded with a wonderful anchorage, well protected and with some of the most interesting cliffs and rock outcroppings that fell directly into the bay. We all commented that the area looked like pictures we had seen of some of the areas in Thailand with Scott (an NPR correspondent previously stationed in Thailand) and Noi, his Thai wife (Symbiosis) concurring. We were also anchored (unfortunately) in the path of all of the tour boats that brought tourists from the surrounding areas to see the caves.

We set out to explore and first went up the small creek near our anchorage to a dock. This led to a path and onto a large cave where there were cave drawings by the Tainos, the indiginous people of this area. We then went across the anchorage to explore the mangrove river. This also turned out to be the source of many of the tour boats. The river was long and winding through the mangroves with great sounds and bird sitings. We ultimately came to a clearing where all the tour buses and taxis were parked. Luckily the traffic ended about 4 and we had the place to ourselves again.

The next day Kaylee was able to give Frank and Diane (Utopia) tours of the caves as the now resident expert. Renewal, friends we had met at the marina in Samana who had two girls (ages 10 and 12) showed up in the afternoon and Kaylee got to swim and play in the bay including being towed on Renewal's paddle board.

​Our permission to visit the park was for two days only so we enjoyed a fast and windy sail back across the bay and to the marina where Pepper and Vagabond still remained after calling off their trip due to weather. We received and email from Exit Stage Left and Wander Star noting it was not the best of trips but they were in Boqueron, safe and happy in Puerto Rico. The planning for the crossing of the Mona Channel to Puerto Rico had now moved to a new level of urgency as we all felt the need to move on.